Think You Need Big Bucks for a Mega Truck? Think Again...

Are you ready to build a mega truck? It might not cost as much as you think.

Building a mega mud truck isn’t just about throwing money at parts and hoping for the best. When JH Diesel and 4X4 breaks down exactly what it costs to build a proper bog truck, the numbers might surprise you - but not for the reasons you think.

Most folks asking about mud truck builds are looking at this backwards. They see a finished rig throwing rooster tails and think they need to start from scratch with a brand new platform. The reality is way different, and way smarter.

Take their Ron Burgundy build - a full five-ton mud truck that started life as a crushed cab project. Instead of building from the ground up, they grabbed a truck that already had the bones: big block, turbo 400, five-ton axles, and a four-link suspension setup. Sure, it needed work, but the expensive foundation was already there.

Starting with a running driving truck for your donor, you’re looking at $10-15k for something decent. Not a show truck, just a solid four-door with a couple hundred thousand miles that can handle the abuse you’re about to dish out. Your first decision after that determines everything else - tire size.

Those massive 18.4-26 tractor tires on Ron Burgundy measure 57 inches tall and 18.4 inches wide, running on 26-inch rims. Most builders step up to 23.1-26s, which stretch to 66 inches tall. Fresh rubber runs $1200-1500 per tire, so you’re dropping five to six grand just getting your truck off the ground. Custom wheels add another $3k for a proper 26 by 20 setup.

The suspension setup separates weekend warriors from serious mud slingers. Eighteen-inch travel is where you want to be for serious bog running. Quality units from companies like CNC or Big Shocks run about $3500 for a complete set.

Five-ton axles are the sweet spot for diesel-powered rigs. They’re heavier than two-and-a-half tons but bulletproof when you’re laying into the throttle. Figure $2500 for a decent pair, then add bearing and seal work to make them right. Most builders weld at least one of the chunks solid for maximum traction.

The transfer case is where things get interesting. An SCS 12.6-inch drop case with ratios from 1.6 all the way up to 5.5 gives you options depending on your power and tire combo. Ron Burgundy runs a 5:1 ratio to keep the truck hooked up in first and second gear. With flanges, you’re looking at $3000.

Custom driveshafts connect everything together - one jack shaft from the transmission plus two from the transfer case to the axles. Balanced and ready to rip, figure $1200-1500 for the complete setup.

Braking gets overlooked until you need it. Running pinion brakes on both axles or just the rear, basic Toyota caliper setups run about $600. Step up to Wilwood units and you’re closer to $1500, but stopping power isn’t where you want to cut corners.

The chassis work separates builders from parts bolters. Two-inch 0.250" wall DOM tubing for link bars, subframe, and anything structural. Eight link bars plus all your brackets and mounting points eat up about six joints of tubing. At current prices, figure $3500 for quality DOM and all the small stuff.

Hydraulic steering makes these trucks manageable. A PSC ram with orbital valve, lines, and fittings runs about $1200. Mount it front or rear depending on your setup, but full hydraulic is the only way to muscle these big tires around.

Four-link kits with sway bar brackets, shock mounts, and heim tabs run $500-600 bucks. Add another $500 for quality heim joints and $500 more for grade eight bolts throughout. Never reuse hardware on suspension components because a failure can cause parts (like broken driveshafts) to whip through other parts of your truck.

Paint and powder coating finish the build right. Figure $2500 for powder coating all the pretty bits - link bars, shocks, wheels, steering components. Another $500 to $1000 for paint depending on how fancy you want to get.

Add it all up and you’re looking at $45-46 grand including a donor truck. Already have a truck? Knock off 15 grand. Sell the original lift kit and wheels? Save another five grand. Do the work yourself and you can build a serious mud truck for 20 to 25 grand in parts.

Ron Burgundy proves the point perfectly. They grabbed it for $11,750 with a crushed cab but solid mechanicals. Add $5000 in top-end engine work, $1500 in transmission freshening, and $800 in new DOM tubing. Total investment: right around $19,000 for a truck that hangs with rigs costing three times as much.

The key is buying smart, not buying new. These trucks take a beating, so starting with a pristine platform makes zero sense. Find something with good bones, fix what’s broken, and upgrade what matters. Your wallet will thank you when you’re throwing mud with the best of them.

Building a mega mud truck doesn’t require mega money - just mega patience and the willingness to turn wrenches. The most expensive part isn’t the parts, it’s the knowledge of what actually matters and what’s just for show.